Strange Air - A novel by Tom Brown

What is it about ruins that attract and fascinate us? As a child growing up in Hastings, I remember climbing over the garden wall at a friend's house, and pushing beyond the brambles and undergrowth, stumbling across a 'secret' garden. It was the overgrown remnants of a sunken Italianate garden, with terraces, dried up fountains and wisteria covered pergolas. I was immediately captivated, not just by its haunting beauty, but also by its mystery. I wanted to imagine how it would have once looked, and what had caused its decline. Though we usually think of ruins in terms of romantic castles or abbeys in remote rural locations, some extremely well documented remains lie right next to the Triangle. Of course, while the Crystal Palace itself was completely erased on that fateful night in 1936, the terraces with their grand staircases, sphinxes and headless statues, the ornate subway, and the circular bases of the water towers all remain, in varying states of decay. As with my earlier childhood discovery, the park, with its layers of history, has always drawn me. Over the years I've taken countless photographs, and what I've tried to capture, is a sense of strangeness and mystery. It's just not like other parks.

Pedestrian Lane - Taken from the now demolished bridge from the station.

Beneath the now demolished bridge.

Local author, Tom Brown, has also been inspired by the park, and in particular, by a mystery surrounding a piece of Victorian engineering known as the pneumatic railway. In the 1860s, engineer, Thomas Rammell chose the park as a location to test his air powered trains, which were literally sucked and blown through tubes, as a cleaner alternative to steam.  A tunnel was constructed between Sydenham and Penge gates, and the paying public were able to experience the two minute journey aboard a plush railway carriage. The line was for demonstration purposes and closed after a year, and details about it remain hazy. Subsequent attempts by Rammell to build a fully operational line, came to nothing, and the idea was soon forgotten. However, during the twentieth century, more than one story arose of people stumbling across the long buried tunnel and finding a carriage full of skeletons. This scenario forms the basis of Tom Brown's highly enjoyable novel: a gothic, time-travelling thriller. At first I have to confess I was sceptical about featuring a book on this site. After all, how would I illustrate it, it not being a shop, cafe, or even an artist's studio? Then it occurred to me that my old pics of the park, perfectly summon the mood of Tom's book.

Author, Tom Brown

Strange Air is the second novel Tom has written, and like the first, So Long Shakespeare, is self-published. Increasing numbers of writers are opting for this route, in the face of risk averse publishers. It was while walking through Sydenham woods with his fiancé about 5 years ago, that they came across the tunnel mouth of the old Crystal Palace High Level Railway, and his fiancé  happened to mention the legend of the skeletons in the railway carriage. After a bit of research, Tom knew that this had the potential to be the sort of story he'd want to read, and hence had to write. Aside from skeletons, trains powered by air, and time travel, the novel has at its heart, the palace and the park, of the past, present and future. So the timing of the book's publication could hardly be more apt, with the recent announcement by a Chinese billionaire, that he intends to rebuild the palace and restore the park. Tom is quite intrigued by the possibility of the palace rising again, but like many locals is also ambivalent. He remarks, " The park is so evocative perhaps precisely because of its (the palace's) absence."

At the entrance to one of the water towers.

Tom standing at a critical location in the book.

Strange Air is available at Bookseller Crow.
Tom will be giving a talk, and reading from the book, at Upper Norwood Joint Library on December 14th. The book is also available to borrow from the library.

Tom Brown's blog

La Belle Jolie

If ever a street was in need of some beauty treatment, it's Anerley Road. Fortunately at No.35, Renée Thornley not only dispenses facials, manicures and massage to her clients, but has also been actively campaigning for improvements to the rundown shopping parade where her salon is situated. 
When I arrive for the shoot, Renée is immaculately turned out as ever, with her instantly recognisable red 50s waves and vintage attire. Her glamorous look has been the basis of a successful career in the beauty industry. She spent several years as Spa Director of the Royal Garden Hotel Spa in Kensington, and later at the Refinery in Mayfair, before branching out on her own, travelling  the country doing vintage workshops; teaching people to create looks from the 20s to the 60s. A desire to have a base, and not spend all her time on the road persuaded Renée to take on the onerous task of transforming a dilapidated building into an elegant local oasis. This formerly squalid corner now twinkles with the hundreds of Swarowski crystals which Renée stuck to the Vymura diamond pattern wallpaper by hand.  And while her vintage loving clientele have come to her, she has also gained a loyal following from locals. Treatments range from manicures and pedicures, to waxing , electrolysis, massage, scrubs and wraps. Spa day packages are offered and hen parties catered for. 
Showing me around there is clearly much pride in what she has achieved. Beyond the reception is the treatment room with its french style furniture, and more will follow downstairs in the next phase of development. And that pride in her work and surroundings, clearly extends to the street outside. Even while I'm interviewing her, she dashes out to remonstrate with a careless lorry driver who has just reversed into an iron bollard. And all her words are backed up with actions. Renée and co-campaigners, Gill Wing, Amanda Sciberras and Elinor Michel set up the Anerley Regeneration Project, which successfully bid for a £25k from Bromley council to spruce up the area. Among the many projects of the ARP, has been the painting of a new mural on a blank wall down the road, and the restoration of the children's dinosaur mural adjacent to the station, in the park. Pavement improvements, new bins and benches, removal of estate agent boards, and redecorating of shopfronts, are all in the pipeline. And Renée's local involvement doesn't stop there; she also set up a new local online forum, Crystal Palace Life, which has proved hugely popular. Renée so nearly didn't become a local. Originally from South Wales, she escaped the green valleys for the urban grit of Elephant & Castle, and loved life there. Then a new partner, attempting to woo her to Crystal Palace, showed her the vintage delights of Church Road, and wined & dined her at Joanna's. Initially all to no avail, Renée's immediate response being "If I wanted trees, I'd have gone home to Wales". Fortunately she was won over and hasn't looked back since.

A collection of vintage cosmetics and fragrance

La Belle Jolie
35 Anerley Road

Book online 

The Murals

Artist: Angela Menezes

Campaigns

One of the recurring themes on The Triangle, is the strong sense of community, and the amount people are prepared to give, in time and effort, to make things happen in the area. No doubt everyone has heard about the Cinema campaign for example. And although we still do not have a permanent local picture house, there's been no shortage of more intimate film showings in the area, as part of the local film festival, and the odd impromptu screening  in Cooper's Yard for example.
Another campaign that has gathered momentum over the last year or two, is Transition Town, which, as we've seen in an earlier post, has the tangible result of having established a weekly local food market.
Meanwhile, those behind the long-running  'Save Upper Norwood Library' campaign continue to do battle with the local authority and government cuts.

Back in the endless winter of 2012/13, another local project was germinating. Organised by various hardy locals, including Annabel Sidney, Mehul Damani & Robbie Gibson, the aim was to rescue some of Crystal Palace Park's famous sphinxes from the ravages of nature. Although some along the top terrace have always been clearly visible, there are plenty more you may never have noticed lurking in the undergrowth, concealed behind ivy and brambles. After several well attended  work days, volunteers have cleared much of the vegetation that was strangling two sets of sphinxes on staircases at the southern end of the terraces. Latterly I joined one such operation, and have to report, it was extremely rewarding, and would recommend anyone to get involved. The rewards are even greater, now that it's been announced that English Heritage are funding a detailed survey into their condition before possible restoration might begin.

Just a stone's throw from the sphinxes, the subway's future is also looking brighter thanks to the work of campaigners, Jules Hussey & Karl Richter. Earlier in the year, a successful application was made to Southwark Council to reinstate the opening on the west side of Crystal Palace Parade, which leads down stone steps to the subway. The steps will be made safe, and a new gate installed. There was also much excitement when, in June, HRH The Duke of Gloucester paid a visit in his capacity as patron of  Heritage of London.

The Duke shakes hands with Karl Richter

Jules Hussey escorts the Duke down to the subway

The stairs leading down from Crystal Palace Parade

Anerley Hill suffers a bit of an image problem; boarded up shops, anti-social behaviour, and those unsightly delivery cages lined up outside Tesco. But this neglected stretch also has its champions, and changes are afoot. Although it's sad to see pubs close down, and there have been 2 recent closures on the hill, it's good to see that the former Thicket tavern, which has now been converted into flats, has at least retained the ground floor for other uses, and the developer, Lightbox, doing their bit for the community have given the space over for the summer, rent free, to the Bigger Picture Gallery, and what's more, 25% of the commission from art sales will go towards the library campaign. This was the opening night back in June.

With regards to wider improvements on the hill, 4 staunch local campaigners have managed to secure £25k from Bromley's regeneration budget. Congratulations ladies!

From left: Elinor Michel, Renee Thornley, Amanda Sciberras & Gill Wing

The team outside La Belle Jolie, which will feature in a future post

Not all campaigning is for local causes, I went to a local event recently which was arranged as a fundraiser for a building far north of here. You may have seen the Channel 4 series called George's Amazing Spaces, which featured our very own Laura Clark (the loo lady). Also featured was a lovely log cabin up in the Lake District (the real one, not the South Norwood pretender to that title). Depressingly the cabin built by Tim Sands, was destroyed by arsonists, so Laura thought it would be good idea to help raise funds for its rebuilding. As she has a studio on Cooper's Yard, that seemed like a great venue for a summer evening of entertainment, attended by Tim and hosted by Laura's husband Kevin. There was local beer, cupcakes, a magician, comedians and a burlesque performer. And all in all nearly £1000 was raised, including £600 which was donated to Shelter. Who said campaigns had to always be hard graft. Cheers!

Vintage barmaid, Laura Clark

Mr Tim Sands in full flow

Laura with Andy (Bambino) Stem

Compere Kevin introducing Tim Sands

Talking down to George Clarke!

The Burlesque star getting ready

Lenny "Kravates" & his band

Lady of the night...