Braziliana

It may have escaped your notice, but they are about to hold some sort of sporting event in the East End. And apparently Crystal Palace and its sports centre, have been chosen as a base for the boys (and girls) from Brazil. In order to welcome their compatriots, Marcos & Mariana Camarotte, have just spruced up their cafe at 72 Westow Hill. Welcome to Braziliana.

Although the cafe has only been going for 3 years, this is already the second refurbishment in it's short history. It had scarcely been open 5 minutes back in 2009, when a van managed to plough through the front window into the cafe. Amazingly nobody was killed in the incident, but it almost dealt a death blow to the young business. It was 8 months before its doors would reopen. Today it's a thriving local cafe and grocery, that not only draws Brazilians and Portuguese from far and wide, but also attracts a wide range of locals, keen to try the traditional Brazilian snacks such as Coxinha (chicken in a potato dough), Pao de queijo (a cheese filled bread roll) or for something more substantial, the Feijoada (beans, pork and spring greens) with Cassava chips.


Raised in Sao Paulo, Marcos is descended from Italian emigrees, and with a nod to his roots, he also sells the finest Italian gelato. His father also used to be a chef, so food is clearly in the blood. Settling in Anerley, the Camarottes immediately saw the potential for a different ethnic establishment on the Triangle, but were surprised how slowly the bureaucratic cogs turned as they tried to set up the business. This is one of the chief differences they have noticed between the UK & Brazil, where things tend to happen a little faster. One imagines that the weather probably provides another stark contrast, although it was the local history and community that attracted them to SE19 rather than the climate.


There is a vibe of excitement at Braziliana with the imminent arrival of the Brazilian team, and the cafe's new extended evening opening hours, but it may also have had something to do with the fact that the day of my shoot was also Marcos Camarotte's 40th birthday. Let the carnival begin!

Marcos Camarotte

Braziliana
72 Westow Hill
020 8761 3090


Now open until 11pm on thursday/friday/saturday

Allbone & Trimit

Life in the 21st century just keeps getting faster. From internet connections to intercity travel, from fast food to instant fashion on the high street, we are obsessed with speed. And hand in hand with speed, goes novelty. The demand for the new is insatiable. As has been often stated, this is becoming increasingly unsustainable, particularly with the vast increase in wealth and demand in countries from China to Brazil. There are signs however, that people are considering alternatives to the mass consumerism we have all grown so used to. In the food industry for example, organisations such as the Slow Food Movement, are promoting the idea of locally sourced produce, and seasonal eating, ie: not eating strawberries in November, when they will either be far from local, or grown intensively in artificial conditions. Meanwhile in the fashion world, vintage clothing, a very old form of recycling, has become a huge trend, and is the very antithesis of cheap disposable fashion so prevalent on the high street. Made to measure is another area that one might have assumed, with the exception of Savile Row, had died out generations past. Although it may sound like an extravagant option, a garment made this way can last for years, is likely to become a permanent part of a wardrobe, and is probably much better made than off-the-peg equivalents. 

In Cooper's Yard, which we have visited before, Catherine Shaw has been running her bespoke dress making business since 2005. Wittily named Allbone & Trimit, Catherine wanted a name that was memorable, but also with an air of solidity and permanence, perhaps evoking the name of a trusted old firm of solicitors. Catherine arrived in South London from Manchester, when she enrolled on the theatre design course at Croydon College of Art. After graduating, she immediately embarked on a career in costume design, working for various theatre companies including the English National Opera and the Australian Opera. As a sideline, Catherine began making wedding dresses for friends and colleagues, and to this day, wedding dresses have become one of her staples. But don't go to Catherine if your desire is for the conventional and white. Her creations are usually anything but white, and are designed to be adaptable so as to be a permanent part of a woman's wardrobe rather than a one day wonder. Individuality is key to Catherine's business. Rather than slavishly following trends, inspiration for a new garment may come from a found scrap of fabric or researching historical precedent.

Catherine working on an outfit for the grandmother of a bride.

Containers of fabric cuttings. Once they have no further use, scraps are sent to schools, and even to recycling facilities where they are converted into compost.

The inspiration board includes Catherine's parents' and grandparents' wedding photos.

Happily the day of the shoot coincided with a particularly interesting client fitting. The dress in question was a historical recreation, one of a pair Catherine was making for Robyn Bramzell and Kate Foy-Taysum of Bramfoy's - Purveyors of Living History. The girls provide colourful guided tours of London in the guise of 18th century ladies of somewhat ill repute.

Robyn Bramzell being laced into her corset.

As a member of the Chamber of Commerce, and a big supporter of the various local campaigns, Catherine is another Crystal Palace enthusiast, whose life and creativity is woven into the very fabric of the Triangle.

Allbone & Trimit

The Overspill

4 Cooper's Yard

07764 196284 

Diamond Jubilee

I've mentioned the thriving independent spirit of the locals before, but do I also detect a streak of republicanism? Wanting to add a topical piece to the blog, I went in search of bunting and other displays of patriotism, but was sorely disappointed. Many shops and businesses have hardly bothered, and as so often, Upper Norwood appears to have slipped into the crevice between 5 boroughs, with no council sponsored decorations. If not republicanism, I guess it's simply a manifestation (or lack of) of the current austerity. My search wasn't completely fruitless however. Facing each other across Church Road, The Alma & Vintagehart had both made an effort. Vintagehart provided a classic punk themed window display. Ironically, punk, and in particular, The Sex Pistols and their version of "God Save The Queen" have over the years acquired national treasure status, making them as important to Britain's cultural identity as the icons they sought to smash. Meanwhile in total contrast, the simple but tasteful bunting in the pub opposite, was crowned by a blooming marvelous Union Jack!


The Alma

Vintagehart

Vien

Vivienne Bartholomew describes Church Road as the "anti shopping mall experience". Ever since those anonymous temples to consumerism took over the world with their identikit stores and sterile environments, sucking the life out of our towns, there has been a growing desire to get back to the idea of shops serving a community as they did in the past, rather than remote corporate giants driven solely by profit and serving only their share-holders. Places like Church Road are firmly rooted in their community, while also being places where people expect something a little different, more stimulating.
We seem to have reached a turning point lately, with high profile efforts by the likes of Mary Portas and other campaigners to rescue our high streets before it's too late. On the ground, this gradual renaissance is driven by people like Vivienne. Like many other shopkeepers on the Triangle, she started in Haynes Lane Market, which seems to act as a kind of nursery for local entrepreneurs. With a keen eye for mixing beautiful vintage printed dresses with elegant homewares, she soon needed a larger space that she could mould in her own way.
Elaborating on her earlier comment, Vivienne argues that shopping should be as much a social interaction as a commercial one. To that end, she has recently added a delightful teashop at the back of her vintage store. Called Samadhi, meaning bliss, it encourages customers to relax and stay awhile, and seems to enhance and complete the whole shop. She adds that the intent is simply to create a pleasant environment, rather than being a hard headed business decision, but it's proving popular, and the shop is thriving as a result. 
Many of Vivienne's attitudes about life and business stem from her interest in meditation. She and her husband Paul have spent time in India learning philosophy and meditation from a guru, Swami Shyam, and they plan to hold regular meditation classes in the teashop. So next time you find yourself getting stressed out in a shopping mall, head up to the Triangle for a higher plane of existence.


The Shop

Vivienne and her tailor create garments from recycled tablecloths.

The Teashop

Vivienne

Vien

87 Church Road

020 8653 6943

Crystal Palace Station

I've never counted the steps at the station, but I know there are enough for weary travellers to be driven to distraction. I've heard tales of mothers with prams, and people on crutches going out of their way to use other more distant stations. You may well ask why the puny outdoor staircase and the feeble ersatz Crystal Palace ticket hall exist at all, when there is an imposing Victorian structure next door, built for that purpose. Poor Mr. Paxton must have turned in his grave.
In true 'Norwoodian' spirit, the last couple of years has seen a campaign by locals on Facebook and elsewhere to re-open the old building and install the long promised lifts. The good news is that this is now happening. I was very fortunate to be allowed access to photograph the interior of the Victorian building prior to the refurbishment. While my day job entails photographing sleek and polished interiors for their creators, I've always seen great beauty in decaying or derelict structures such as this.
I would like to thank local campaigner, Gill Wing for organising the tour of the building, and Julian Moosai from London Overground for allowing us access.

Ticket hall with doors leading directly to stairs and soon to the lifts as well.

Ornate shadows cast by the Victorian ironwork.

The ghostly outline of the former ticket booth can be seen against the wall.

And the tour doesn't end there. Much to my surprise and delight, I was allowed upstairs, and onto both the roof of the tower, and the station roof itself...

Inside the tower

What a view!

The soon-to-be-redundant 80s annexe, over the parapet. Paxton can once again rest peacefully.